Pattern Bon Voyage T-Shirt

Discover the elegance of the Bon Voyage T-Shirt, a masterpiece of knitting that blends style with comfort. Crafted for adults, this pattern offers a range of sizes from 40-42 to 56-58 (XS to XXXL), ensuring a perfect fit for every body type. Using 3.0 mm (US 2.5) circular needles for the main fabric and 2.5 mm (US 1.5) needles for the ribbing, this pattern is designed to create a seamless, top-down garment. The highlight is a central lace pattern, adding a touch of sophistication to the simple stockinette stitch. Whether you’re an experienced knitter or looking to undertake a rewarding project, the Bon Voyage T-Shirt is your next must-knit item.

Sizes

• 40-42 (chest circumference 80-84 cm)
• 44-46 (chest circumference 88-92 cm)
• 48-50 (chest circumference 96-100 cm)
• 52-54 (chest circumference 104-108 cm)
• 56-58 (chest circumference 112-116 cm)

When choosing a size, it is recommended to focus on the width of the finished item.

Gauge

Stockinette stitch gauge: 21 stitches and 27 rows = 4 inches (10 x 10 cm)

Materials and Tools

• BC Garn Soft Silk yarn (100% silk, 100g 350m). Amount required by size: 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins.
• Circular needles 3.0 mm (or size needed to achieve gauge) for main fabric
• Circular needles 2.5 mm (or half size smaller than needed for gauge) for ribbing
• 3 mm crochet hook
• Tapestry needle
• Tape measure
• Waste yarn or extra cable
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

Knitting Description

The t-shirt is knitted in stockinette stitch, with a raglan from the top down in the round without seams. A lace pattern of 33 stitches is knitted along the center front. The pattern can be placed on the back or the t-shirt can be knitted in stockinette stitch only. Raglan lines are knitted with a “4-stitch cable” pattern with yarn overs on both sides of it. Increases are made every 2nd row. Yarn overs in even rows are knitted as twisted stitches. The gusset is knitted in turning rows, then the item is knitted in the round.

Central Lace Pattern

• Slip 2 stitches to a cable needle, leave at the back; knit the 3rd stitch as knit, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle also as knit.
• Slip 1 stitch to a cable needle, leave at the front; knit the 2nd and 3rd stitches as knit, then knit the slipped 1st stitch also as knit.
• Knit 3 stitches together such that the central stitch is over the adjacent two. For this, slip the first 2 stitches onto the right needle (slip 2 together left to right), knit the 3rd stitch as knit and pull it through the slipped stitches – thus, the new stitch passes first through the 3rd, then through the 1st, and finally through the 2nd central stitch.
• When knitting 2 stitches together, pay attention so that the stitches do not twist – it is necessary to straighten them out.
• Empty cells represent knit stitches.

The repeat of the central pattern is marked in red, the side patterns in green; repeat starting from the 9th row as many times as necessary.

Important! The chart only shows odd rows! Even rows are knitted according to the pattern. Since the pattern will be in circular knitting, yarn overs should be knitted as knit stitches.

Pattern for the Raglan Line

Twisted stitch (knit or purl – depends on whether it is circular knitting or flat knitting). In circular knitting, always knit as a twisted knit stitch, in flat knitting on the purl side knit as a twisted purl, in the knit row – as a twisted knit. The slant of the twisted stitch – at the knitter’s discretion – either AWAY from the raglan line or TOWARD the raglan line on both sides, symmetry must be maintained.

1×1 Ribbing

1 knit, 1 purl – repeat to the end of the row.

Note that the finished item, due to the characteristics of the yarn, will stretch.

Casting on Stitches and Knitting the Gusset

Using a crochet hook, cast on a chain of air loops using waste yarn of a contrasting color (the number of stitches for each size is indicated in brackets sequentially) – 86 (90, 102, 110, 114). Cast on loosely. Then, using 3 mm circular needles, pick up the neckline stitches by pulling the working yarn through the “bumps” of the air loops from the wrong side of the chain. The knitting will automatically close into a circle.

Knit 1 row of stockinette stitch – the setup row. Then distribute markers – mark each raglan line (RL) (4 stitches) on both sides. Add turning point markers (TPM). The beginning of the row marker (BRM) is marked in red on the chart (in the middle of the RL on the back side). TPM – in blue.

Underarms

Divide the stitches of the raglan lines (RL) into two parts – 2 stitches for the sleeve, 2 stitches for the back/front. Knit 2 RL stitches, all the back stitches (83 (87, 97, 105, 109)), 2 RL stitches, cast on 3 (3, 4, 5, 6) air loops on the needle. Move 2 RL stitches, sleeve stitches, 2 RL stitches to waste yarn.

Continue knitting. Knit all the front stitches (not forgetting to knit the central pattern according to the chart), 2 RL stitches, cast on 3 (3, 4, 5, 6) air loops. Close the knitting into a circle and continue.

Attention! If you need to increase the width of the item, you can add a few stitches for the underarm.

In the next row, knit the air loops as regular knit stitches. Continue knitting to the required length. The recommended length after blocking is indicated in the table.

Note! After blocking, the finished item, due to the characteristics of the yarn, will stretch. It’s recommended to knit a few centimeters shorter than the desired length, as the item will stretch in length after washing.

You can finish knitting with 4 rows of ribbing and 3 rows of stockinette stitch on 2.5 mm needles. Bind off in the usual way with needles to create a rolled edge. Or use your favorite or desired method to finish the bottom of the item.

It’s recommended, after finishing the skein, to start shaping the neckline and sleeves, and then return to knitting the body.

Sleeves

Transfer the stitches from the waste yarn to circular needles.

1st row: introduce the working yarn in the center of the underarm. Lift the underarm stitches, knit 2 stretches between the underarm stitches and the sleeve stitches as twisted knit – slanting towards each other. Then knit all the sleeve stitches, lift 2 stretches again and knit them as twisted knit, slanting towards each other, lift the remaining underarm stitches. Place the beginning of the round marker (BRM).

2nd row: knit the underarm stitches, knit 2 stitches together as knit (in the 1st row they were knitted as twisted) slanting towards the BRM – i.e., to the right, sleeve stitches, knit 2 stitches together as knit (in the 1st row they were knitted as twisted) slanting towards the BRM – i.e., to the left, and the remaining underarm stitches.

If a relatively long sleeve is desired, decrease every 3rd row in a similar manner. Finish the same as the bottom of the item, i.e., 4 rows of 1×1 ribbing, 3 rows of stockinette stitch. Bind off in the usual way.

In our case, the sleeve is short, so starting from the 3rd row, 4 rows of 1×1 ribbing and 3 rows of stockinette stitch are knitted on 2.5 mm needles. Knit the second sleeve similarly.

Neckline

Unravel the air chain at the neckline and transfer the freed stitches to 2.5 mm circular needles. Knit 4 rows of 1×1 ribbing and 3 rows of stockinette stitch. Bind off in the usual way.

Blocking

After finishing the work, weave in the ends and proceed with blocking. Gently wash your item in cold water with a special detergent. For example, use Hollywool solid or liquid soap without lanolin. Do not wring out the item, squeeze it in a towel. Dry on a flat surface away from heat sources (not in direct sunlight). Be sure to form rolled edges on the sleeves, neckline, and bottom edge of the t-shirt (if the edge treatment was as described). Control the size with a tape measure. Do not dry on hangers – it stretches.

Recommended Yarn

• BC Garn Soft Silk (100% silk, 100g 350m) – used in the pattern